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Chrystal is shown here with our
Iron On Butterfly Wing Transfer 25C
in gold outline ironed
onto metallic ribbon. |
Chrystal is dressed as a playful dollhouse
lady in her sexy undies, made with bits of lace to make up her outfit.
copyright Doreen
Sinnett 2004 |
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Tutorial for Chrystal's Body Assembly
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You Need the following items:
 Doreen
Sinnett's "Chrystal" Body, Arm and Head molds.
A Xacto Knife and new Xacto Blade.
One small soft brush and one medium size soft brush.
Water and thin porcelain slip.
A 12"x12" square piece of plastic
grocery bag (for setting doll parts on while working with them)
Q Tips and a piece of nylon stocking.
Two pipe cleaners (chenille stems)
twisted together.
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No. 1
When the porcelain has dried enough to open the mold, leave it open until
the porcelain pieces are still leather hard, but dry to the touch. Gently,
rock each piece back and forth in the mold until they are loose. Remove each
piece carefully. (Do not cut any of the parts until later.) If you pull on them to release, you may break or
twist the legs out of shape. |
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No 2.
Remove and smooth the seam lines from the shin part of
the feet and legs on both halves. Shape the toes as needed. No 3.
Holding onto the two "pour hole" pieces,
temporarily fit/hold them together, making sure that the back of the body is
matched evenly. Make sure that the body is not leaning when placed on knees.
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No. 4
When you feel comfortable with the fit of the two
pieces, take them apart and wet the flat areas with water, then, quickly
paint one side with thin porcelain slip, and put them together. Press
gently until the crack in front is almost closed. Do not force them, or they
may collapse. Let dry for about 30 minutes. |
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No. 5
Remove the seam lines from the lower back, buttocks and feet.
Make smooth. No. 6
Paint a thin line of porcelain in the front and
back cracks. Then, paint only the top half of the back crack until it
is smooth. Let dry.
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No. 7
Smooth the crack in her tummy. Remove the "pour hole" piece (see #8) and
trim the lower body (making sure that it is sitting upright). Finish
cleaning all seams. |
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No.8
To remove the pour hole, I use the Xacto blade in a carving movement as
shown, cutting tiny pieces gently all around the "pour hole" piece until it
comes loose. Smooth the waist line. |
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No. 9
This picture shows the back of the lower body after removing pour hole and
before smoothing off the seam lines. (Smooth off the seam lines if you
haven't already done so.) |
No. 1
No. 2 |
No. 10
1.Cut 3/16" holes in the bottom of the shoulder/arm area
to make arm holes. (Arms will attach with chenille stems AFTER firing.) 2. Fit the upper body to the lower body. Trim if
necessary, to sit upright. When you are comfortable with the fit, wet the
rim on the lower body, and the rim of the upper body pieces. Quickly paint
wet slip onto one of the rims and put together, gently pressing them
together. Wait for about 30 minutes before continuing with the next step. |
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No. 11
If the body is uneven around the waistline, try
smoothing the waist using a wet Q-tip. Smooth the waistline with wet slip.
All seam lines should be removed by now.
When all of the porcelain is completely dry, check
and fix any unwanted cracks.
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This picture shows fired
parts, not green ware. This stage should still be in the green ware stage.
Disregard the hole in the neck unless you are making her with a swivel head. |
No. 12
Instructions for attaching a fixed head, using wet slip.
Cut a small hole in the top of the head to keep it from exploding when
fired. Clean and fit the green ware head to the green ware neck. Using
step No. 4, attach the head with the porcelain slip and smooth as necessary. |
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SEE OUR UPCOMING TUTORIAL AT
WWW.TINYDOLLS.COM
FOR SWIVEL HEAD ATTACHMENT
(The swivel green ware heads must
be fitted to the green ware necks before firing for a PROPER fit.. Any
of our molds with swivel heads may be used with this body.) |
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This picture shows a swivel head attachment,
which you can learn how to do in our upcoming tutorial. |
No. 13
Trim and smooth any unfinished parts. Let dry
completely and finish any needed smoothing by using a small piece of nylon
stocking wrapped around the Q-tip. When all of the porcelain is
completely dry, check and fix an unwanted cracks.
No. 14
ARMS: Gently rock the arms out of the
mold. Clean seam lines and get ready for firing. Make sure the end of the
arm is hollow so that the pipe cleaners will fit in them for assembly .
The body and parts are now ready to be fired. Fire
all of your parts.
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This picture shows Scarlett's head (made from
the H2 mold) on Chrystals body with Chrystal's new arms. Any of Doreen's
molds with swivel heads will fit this new kneeling body. You can use
Chrystal, Arial, Beth, Harriet, Scarlet, Lisette, Celeste and Bonnie heads.
Monique, Ethel, Brett and Celeste II have heads on torso, but, if cut
carefully around the jaw line, they may also be used with Chrystals new
body. |
No. 15
Assembling Chrystal's 3/4 length, fired porcelain, arms.
Take the pipe cleaners that are already twisted together and cut a length
approximately 1 1/4" long. Glue the arm onto the end of the pipe
cleaner. Let dry. Fit the other end of the pipe cleaner up into the armhole.
(The bent elbow should measure up to be at the waistline of your doll.) Trim
the pipe cleaner as necessary, leaving approx 1/2" or more, up into the
armhole. Remove pipe cleaner and insert glue up into the armhole and
reinsert pipe cleaner/arm and let dry over night. Repeat for other side.
(There will be about 1/4" to 1/2" gap, showing pipe cleaner, between
shoulder and the top of the arm).
Congratulations! Your
Chrystal Fairy is now ready to dress as you please. |
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copyright Doreen Sinnett 2004 |
Warning
This mold is not
recommended for the beginner. Joining porcelain pieces is tricky. Both
pieces must be wet to join together successfully, but if too wet, they can
turn to mush.
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